Jean Claude Jitrois welcomed guests to the private
presentation of his Spring/Summer 2013 collection held in his own beautiful
home overlooking the Louvre and the Tuileries during Paris Fashion Week SS13. Known
for their signature perforation and fringe detailing, Jitrois is viewed as one
of the preeminent high-end luxury goods houses specializing in leather and fur, which
quickly became apparent in the radiant collection presented. This season, the
arches and stained glass of the recently renovated Sainte-Chapelle church on
Paris’ Ile-de-la-Cité inspired the designer’s collection that showed off his
experimentation with leather and other materials such as broderie anglaise,
crocheted knitwear and crystal embellishments, adding lightness and delicacy to
the heavy material. In ultraviolet, padparadscha, indigo blue, beige and black,
Jean Claude Jitrois achieved a “seamless transition between leather, exotic
skins and silk” in form fitting dresses at various lengths and classic leather
jackets that took new forms with zipper-detailed lapels and belted waists. In the intimate
setting, statuesque models strode out in garments inspired by the Rayonnant
Gothic church with design details reminiscent of its ribbed vault and intricate
13th century stained glass windows. As one skirt made of silver
leather fringe embodied the effects of sunrays fragmented by the stained glass
covered walls, the last dress out was the chapel’s dominating rose window bursting
with red and white crystals. Some looks acted as the support of the collection like
the columns of the church in sleek silhouettes; while other looks in rich
colors and elaborate crocheting paralleled the polychrome décor. Each look out
resembled a part of the acclaimed royal chapel, and built layer upon layer an
equally acclaimed collection, featuring the perfect “marriage of structural
forms and artisanal expertise”.
See more images from the show:
xx, Q.
[images courtesy of Jitrois]
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