John Galliano Spring/Summer 2013: Bold Romance, Timid Adventure

Designer Bill Gaytten, of John Galliano, presented a voluminous collection of “Edwardian elegance” during Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013. Models appeared in oversized tent dresses with front folds and gathers that were paired with large brimmed hats by Stephen Jones, inspired by millefeuilles and birds’ nests. The designs, in cotton, technical taffeta, crepe and cotton poplin, featured a muted palette of stone, coral, navy, white, black and pale pink, as well as “demure yet urban” prints with a flying man and traffic jam jacquard.

Although the collection was pretty and poetic, the designer’s looks lacked the adventure of his fall collection and of Galliano, as WWD remarked, “Gaytten moved away from the founder’s theatrics in favor of a cleaner, more architectural sensibility…” Bill Gaytten seems to be coming into his own at John Galliano with this romantic, though at times lackluster collection. Next season, I'm looking forward to a collection with a greater balance between quiet romance and the adventurous spirit of the fashion house.

Jourdan Dunn

Beauty look: White Eyeliner
See more photos from the show on Vogue.fr.

Contributing photographer for Quinntessential Style: Phirak Kok

xx, Q.
[credit: Vogue.fr]


Liu Fang Spring/Summer 2013: Sculpted Cashmere (for Prête-moi Paris!)

Blogger and my Parisian big sister Melissa of Prête-moi Paris! asked me to attend Chinese designer, Liu Fang's Spring/Summer 2013 show for the China in Paris Initiative this past Paris Fashion Week. Below I've posted the article I wrote for her site.
Dubbed “the sculptor of soft gold” by Vogue China, Liu Fang was the chosen designer for the China in Paris Initiative this year, showing on the runways of Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013 for the first time. Liu Fang presented a collection of three dimensional, geometric cashmere pieces that were sculpted by using a special knitting technique. On the cream-carpeted runway, taught cords stretched from ceiling to floor, suggesting the instrumental strings of the simple soundtrack and framing the ethereal beings who floated on sky-high platform shoes that tapered forward without heels. The designer meticulously played with shape, tailoring the cashmere and draping panels of different knits. The models were like otherworldly warriors with sculpted dresses that resembled futurist armor and hairstyles that elongated their heads. The dresses featured vertebrae-like, 3D-relief vines that snaked around the models’ torsos and sensual cutouts that added sex appeal. The sculpted knits were paired with gossamer knit tights. As the artistic director of PALUOPO, a cashmere company that provides fine knits to top European fashion houses, it was no surprise that Liu Fang’s cashmere sculptures were well received. Using cream knits, the immaculate collection suggests futuristic purity and a promise of rebirth.
See more photos from the show after the jump...

xx, Q.


Jitrois Spring/Summer 2013: Stained Glass, Ribbed Vaults and Leather

Jean Claude Jitrois welcomed guests to the private presentation of his Spring/Summer 2013 collection held in his own beautiful home overlooking the Louvre and the Tuileries during Paris Fashion Week SS13. Known for their signature perforation and fringe detailing, Jitrois is viewed as one of the preeminent high-end luxury goods houses specializing in leather and fur, which quickly became apparent in the radiant collection presented. This season, the arches and stained glass of the recently renovated Sainte-Chapelle church on Paris’ Ile-de-la-Cité inspired the designer’s collection that showed off his experimentation with leather and other materials such as broderie anglaise, crocheted knitwear and crystal embellishments, adding lightness and delicacy to the heavy material. In ultraviolet, padparadscha, indigo blue, beige and black, Jean Claude Jitrois achieved a “seamless transition between leather, exotic skins and silk” in form fitting dresses at various lengths and classic leather jackets that took new forms with zipper-detailed lapels and belted waists. In the intimate setting, statuesque models strode out in garments inspired by the Rayonnant Gothic church with design details reminiscent of its ribbed vault and intricate 13th century stained glass windows. As one skirt made of silver leather fringe embodied the effects of sunrays fragmented by the stained glass covered walls, the last dress out was the chapel’s dominating rose window bursting with red and white crystals. Some looks acted as the support of the collection like the columns of the church in sleek silhouettes; while other looks in rich colors and elaborate crocheting paralleled the polychrome décor. Each look out resembled a part of the acclaimed royal chapel, and built layer upon layer an equally acclaimed collection, featuring the perfect “marriage of structural forms and artisanal expertise”.

See more images from the show:

xx, Q.

[images courtesy of Jitrois]


Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2013: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez celebrate 10 years

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez celebrated their 10th anniversary heading design at Proenza Schouler this Spring/Summer 2013 Fashion Week, and to mark the occasion, the New York design duo decided to go back to essentials and honor the label's classics in their spring collection, including electric blue motifs with black zebra stripes, colorful python, woven leather, futurist shoes, punky handbags and touches of acid green that cropped up throughout the entire show. Metal rivets, A-line skirts, zippers and psychedelic prints were just a few of the New York brand's standard design codes immortalized this season with a soft 1960s reinterpretation. Skirt suits appeared in colorful leather patchwork and graphic motifs, and black crocheted tops were paired with glossy black leather skirts. Prints appeared as postcards sent from the forest, the sea, the beach and the city, and dresses had origami pleating in patchwork designs, resulting in wearable inspiration boards. The last look out was a dress printed with a crowd of people and sprinkled with fluorescent pink studs on the bodice, and metal rivets on the skirt. With the crowd of people and the vibrant stud and rivet confetti, the designers amped up the party vibe and set the mood to celebrate their florid Spring/Summer 2013 collection, and 10 years of divine creativity. 
By Jennifer Neyt, translated by Quinn Connors

See the review with the collection, backstage, details and front row galleries on Vogue.fr in English.

Find more of My Vogue Translations on Pinterest.

xx, Q.

[credit: vogue.fr]


Oscar de la Renta Spring/Summer 2013: Upper East Side Debutantes and 1950s Prom Queens

With Fashion Week raging, Oscar de la Renta was the eye of the New York storm, putting the whirlwind of shows on pause and reminding us all that we were in fact in New York City. As the absolute master of Made in the USA opulence, the designer created the perfect Spring/Summer 2013 collection for a young Upper East Side debutante. Models exuded fresh femininity and elegance, channeling Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's. For daytime, looks floated between the flawless elegance of an ecru tapered pant and the luxury of a knee-length dress or skirt, all embellished with embroidery, lace, flowers and pearls. Without going over the top, red roses decorated models' necklines and diamante heart-shaped earrings circa 1995 sparkled on their ears. The collection's delicious palette made us crave a stop after the show at Magnolia Bakery, with its cupcake colors like golden yellow, candy pink, Curacao blue and mint green. Model's walks were airy and delicate, with heels decorated in flowers and bows, and their hair was coiffed into Stepford Wives' beehives infused with a streak of neon color. For nighttime, the collection offered dresses fit for a 1950s prom queen with voluminous skirts in eye-catching colors, and garment embellishments that were almost to haute couture standard. With silvery pearls glistening like shells, ostrich feathers drenched in vibrant pink, diamante embroideries, 3D flowers, iridescent brocade and cascading tulle, not once did we feel visually over-stimulated. On the contrary, we were left wanting more. 
By Jennifer Neyt, translated by Quinn Connors. 

See the review with the collection and details galleries on Vogue.fr in English.

Find more of My Vogue Translations on Pinterest.

xx, Q.

[source: vogue.f]


Tommy Hilfiger Spring/Summer 2013: Summer in the Hamptons

Tommy Hilfiger brought guests to the Chelsea Market in New York City for the presentation of their Spring/Summer 2013 collection, and seated them on a suspended footbridge with a view of the Hudson River. Lit with miner's lamps lightly blowing in the wind, the show had the perfect New York summer's end ambiance that made us feel like we were still on vacation, taking us back a couple weeks to sitting in the sand and enjoying the sun. The show began on a festive note with the hit song had us dancing all summer, I Follow Rivers by Lykke Li, and for Tommy Hilfiger, stripes will be the hit of next summer. We saw them in variations throughout the collection, appearing as mariner-striped shirts, pajama suits, uniforms and menswear-styled blouses in washed-out vintage colors characteristic of the preppy label. Continuing the nautical-chic effect, stripes were also found on menswear-styled suits, long evening dresses, cardigans, polos and blouses. The retro sportswear-inspired wardrobe will manifest next season in long backless dresses tied with gold braided rope and styled with espadrilles. This whimsical collection provokes a feeling of summer in the Hamptons with your closest friends, watching the August shooting stars while enjoying a beachfront bonfire. Tommy Hilfiger's fresh, summery and relaxed-chic wardrobe is already giving us spring fever.
By Jennifer Neyt, translated by Quinn Connors.

See the collection and details galleries on Vogue.fr in English.

Find more of My Vogue Translations on Pinterest.

xx, Q.

[source: vogue.fr]

Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2013: A Circus of Geometrics

While I continue to work on my articles for Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013 over the next few days, I will post my editorial translations from Vogue.fr of a few New York Fashion Week shows. French text by Jennifer Neyt, English translation by Quinn Connors.
"The main inspiration this season is the t-shirt," explained Marc Jacobs backstage at his Spring/Summer 2013 show. After a last whimsical season exploring dreamy, imaginary lands, the designer has returned to a more concrete idea of fashion, but that's not to say he didn't lose his illusionist's knack of surprising his audience, and injecting shock and awe where it's least expected. Compared to last year, the show's decor was more minimalist in appearance but in actuality, everything was a puzzling trompe-l'oeil. As the looks progressively popped up one by one, they were distorted and split by the distorting mirrors surrounding the runway, in a tricky game of reflections. The first look out was a white t-shirt with a black barcode printed on the front worn simply over black panties. T-shirts magically elongated into dresses with Bridget Riley-esque optical illusion prints sectioned off into stripes, checks and houndstooth, catching the eye and altering perceptions. Skirts were worn below the knee and paired with cropped tops showing off models' navels. A Mickey Mouse black and white sweatshirt passed by, in a nod to the designer who spoke backstage about his favorite childhood Mickey t-shirt. The prim and proper models wore flat, pointed Mary Janes  that curled at the tip ever so slightly, and delicate floral shapes blossomed on cuffs and ruffled around their necks in a very jester-meets-mime spirit. In the Marc Jacobs circus, all of the garment details accentuated the theatrical side of the center ring event, and the optical effects were even more mesmerizing on the evening dresses. Patterns gradually morphed from bodices into skirts in a gradient effect of checks and stripes, and trompe-l'oeils were present even in the cutting, as an awe-inspiring evening dress rippled down the runway with a skirt cut into strips that cleverly blended into the striped motif of the dress. During the finale, the models returned from the mirrors in a geometric formation, plunging the audience deeper into the designer's contemporary retro vision of the season.

See the review with the collection, backstage, details and front row galleries on Vogue.fr in English.

See more of My Vogue Translations on Pinterest.

xx, Q.

[source: vogue.fr]

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